Bioplastic

Winded Textiles

The material research project "Winded Textiles" explores the innovative potential of robotic winding, a precision-driven process in which yarn is layered around a form or mandrel to create lightweight and durable textile material compounds directly in shape. This technique, traditionally used in industries like automotive and aerospace, is highly effective for manufacturing rotationally symmetric objects such as hydrogen pressure vessels.
The Winded Textiles project reimagines this method to focus on creative and sustainable textile material design, pushing the boundaries of what robotic winding can achieve.

As part of the EU-funded research initiative “Fashion & Robotics”, led by Christiane Luible-Bär and Johannes Braumann at the Art University Linz, the "Winded Textiles" was initiated by Katharina Halusa in collaboration with Bio artist and researcher Fara Peluso and the support of Emanuel Gollob. Together, the team shifted the focus of robotic winding from industrial applications to innovative material research that emphasizes sustainability and design potential. A key innovation was the use of Peluso’s bioplastics, derived from biodegradable alginate, as a binding agent for the winded textile structures. Unlike traditional polymer resins, these bioplastics are eco-friendly and biodegradable, addressing critical environmental concerns while ensuring the technical feasibility of the process.

The integration of robotics was essential to achieving the project’s goals. Robotic systems provided the precision, control, and consistency required to wind yarn into patterns and geometries. This enabled the creation of textile textures, unlocking new possibilities for material functionality and design. Robotic winding bridges the gap between craftsmanship and industrial efficiency, allowing for the exploration of unique patterns and forms while maintaining reproducibility.

The resulting winded textiles have a wide range of potential applications, particularly in fashion. In the future, these materials could be used to create garments and accessories that combine structural integrity with distinct aesthetics. The layered fibres form dynamic, three-dimensional patterns and textures, offering designers a new and versatile medium for visual and tactile expression. Beyond fashion, winded textiles could be used in other industries that require lightweight yet transversely elastic fabric materials.

The material research also emphasises the collaborative relationship between humans and machines in the design process. While robotic systems ensure precision and efficiency, the creative input of designers shapes the patterns and outcomes, fostering a dynamic interplay between intentional design and emergent forms.

Ultimately, the project showcases how a manufacturing method traditionally associated with industrial efficiency can be reimagined for future textile materials. By incorporating robotic precision with biodegradable materials, "Winded Textiles" sets a precedent for sustainable and responsible design practices.

The prototypes developed through this research exemplify the possibilities of interdisciplinary collaboration, demonstrating how technology and creativity can merge to redefine textile materiality. "Winded Textiles" opens up a future where craftsmanship, robotics, and sustainability coexist, offering a new way for innovation in material design and production.

Making process

A robot guides a thread guide in a linear movement, while another robot rotates a cylinder, creating a winded textile structure on its surface. During this winding process, bioplastic is applied to the textile. Once the bioplastic has dried, the textile can be removed from the cylinder.

The bioplastic used in this process is typically derived from alginate, a naturally occurring polymer, and is formulated to serve as an eco-friendly binder in the composite. When the winded textile is dipped into the bioplastic solution, it ensures an even and thorough coating over the entire structure, which is essential for achieving enhanced adhesion between the bioplastic and the yarn fibres. Upon curing, the bioplastic forms a film with moderate hardness, providing the necessary structural support while still maintaining the inherent flexibility and transverse elasticity of the textile. Its low density contributes to the lightweight nature of the material, and its high transparency allows the intricate, multi-layered patterns of the winded textile to be visible, adding an aesthetic dimension to the overall design. Additionally, the bioplastic's biodegradable nature means that it offers a sustainable alternative to traditional synthetic resins, aligning the material with environmental goals, and its formulation can be adjusted to tailor properties such as viscosity, curing time, and mechanical performance to suit specific application needs.

Text submitted by the maker and edited by the Future Materials Bank. For information about reproducing (a part of) this text, please contact the maker.