Wool, Silk, Linen

Soil to Soil

Soil to Soil is an organic couture collection that embodies longevity, drawing inspiration from the noble qualities of alpaca wool, silk, linen. The circularity of materials in this concept begins in the ground and returns to it; therefore, the textile design starts with the origin of the fibres and extends through their decomposition. All materials are kept natural and sourced from responsible, ethical suppliers. Extensive research was conducted into animal farming, shearing, and fibre processing, both by hand and machine, in collaboration with local alpaca breeders and a spinning mill.

With the same patience applied in farming and weaving, texture is added to simplicity, exploring the sensorial distinctions between human hair and animal fibre follicles. Just as fabric can swaddle an infant and accompany us throughout life, the textiles and designs symbolize birth, growth, ageing, and the passage of time. They highlight the transience of human existence, as well as of their materials and clothing. By keeping the artefacts completely natural, they can be passed on or returned to the ground to become soil, plant, fibre, and garment again. In this concept, death is not an end but a new beginning — a source of fertility and life.

Making process

The making process of the organic couture collection began with extensive research into natural fibres, studying various animal and plant fibres and their specific processing steps, both by hand and machine. This included breaking, scutching, and hackling flax into linen, as well as shearing, sorting, cleaning, and spinning alpaca fibres. With the knowledge gathered during this phase by the designer, collaboration with Austrian alpaca farmers, a spinning mill, and manufacturers made it possible to develop yarns for weaving on a shaft loom, source natural silk yarns from India, and obtain linen cloth grown and woven in Europe. These materials formed the basis for creating distinct organic textiles.

For Look 01, alpaca fibres were combed, carded, and arranged on linen cloth, connecting them through needle-felting. The materials were placed on a brush, and using a tool with six barbed needles, raw fibres were pushed through the weaving. The fluffy surface was brushed and finished with hand embroidery using alpaca yarn and linen macramé details, then crafted into a blouse and trousers.

Alpaca yarns for Looks 02 and 03 were warped on a warping board and set on a shaft loom, hand-woven into textiles using natural alpaca tones. These textiles were detailed with needle-felting and sewn into an overall, a coat, and a skirt, utilising long-fringed panels. Additionally, a top was board-woven, mimicking the sinuous structure of wood grain. Nails were hammered into a wood board in the shape of the top, alpaca yarns were warped, and the pattern was tapestry-woven in various colours to follow the wood’s surface.

For Look 04, fine linen was naturally dyed with avocado peels and manipulated with the needle-felting tool to create a loopy surface. The textiles were embroidered with alpaca and silk yarns and crafted into an apron and dress. The same yarns were warped on a warping board, knotted, and formed into a long braid, which can be worn as a scarf.

Text submitted by the maker and edited by the Future Materials Bank. For information about reproducing (a part of) this text, please contact the maker.